Saturday, June 24, 2017

DAY 11 FRI JUNE 23 TRIBORG AND SPLIT, CROATIA






Isn't everyday Friday when you're retired?

Triborg-first stop



The old city is housed on a little island.




Trogir has 2300 years of continuous urban tradition. Its culture was created under the influence of the ancient Greeks, and then the Romans, and Venetians. Trogir has a high concentration of palaces, churches, and towers, as well as a fortress on a small island, and in 1997 was inscribed in the UNESCOWorld Heritage List. "The orthogonal street plan of this island settlement dates back to the Hellenistic period and it was embellished by successive rulers with many fine public and domestic buildings and fortifications. Its beautiful Romanesque churches are complemented by the outstanding Renaissance and Baroquebuildings from the Venetian period", says the UNESCO report:per Wiki.

Trogir is the best-preserved Romanesque-Gothic complex not only in the Adriatic, but in all of Central Europe. Trogir's medieval core, surrounded by walls, comprises a preserved castle and tower and a series of dwellings and palaces from the Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque periods.  Trogir's grandest building is the church of St. Lawrence, whose main west portal is a masterpiece by Radovan, and the most significant work of the Romanesque-Gothic style in Croatia.




Well, all ok as we all know Boca can never see too many churches.  Bubs took the day off-NO TOUR DAY-or as he calls it, a sea day- his favorite.  Our guide was quite proud of the cleaning of the church stone.



A picture before the cleaning and blasting.



Inside the church girls are prepping for a wedding to be held later in the day...4 chairs?  Ah must be for the brides mother....to keep her eyes on the groom.  Excellent idea- Alex be sure to ask Father Philemon  about including this in your service. Bringing new meaning to Mamma Mia!




Pleep also liked that they had 2 sizes of confessional- the small one for little white lies and the big one for whoppers!



Lots and lots of limestone.
Do you think Boca is getting better with the selfies??




First Uber sign we've seen yet.  Wonder what that now former founder and President's gonna do now that he is out of a job?  Me thinks, whatever in the heck he wants to do.



Ok enough of the Triborg- moving on to





















And again, last time here for Boca was 45 years ago.   Today's version of Boca the college student in Split-no more back pack just lots of rolling cases.



This stunning historic city is jammed with tourists and wow has it changed!



The main drag has  really added a LOT more cafe's and stores- wow!

SPLIT lies on the eastern shore of the Dalmation coast of Croatia-while it is know as a tourist destination, it's history is long and deep.  So for my friends that are a bit of a history buff- read on..


Home to Diocletian's Palace, built for the Roman emperor in 305 CE, the city was founded as the Greek colonyof Aspálathos (Aσπάλαθος) in the 3rd or 2nd century BC. It became a prominent settlement around 650 CE when it succeeded the ancient capital of the Roman province of DalmatiaSalona. After the Sack of Salona by the Avars and Slavs, the fortified Palace of Diocletian was settled by the Roman refugees. Split became a Byzantine city, to later gradually drift into the sphere of the Republic of Venice and the Kingdom of Croatia, with the Byzantines retaining nominal suzerainty. For much of the High and Late Middle Ages, Split enjoyed autonomy as a free city, caught in the middle of a struggle between Venice and the King of Hungary for control over the Dalmatian cities.

We visit the Palace....lots of ruins.


That is what compress and petrified garbage looks like... While passing through the basement halls, you can imagine the appearance o the almost identical rooms o the Diocletian's residence at the floor above.  The basement floor was originally dirt and Roman mortar but now we find with a relatively new concrete floor- making it easy for us tourists to roam around.




Venice eventually prevailed and during the early modern period Split remained a Venetian city, a heavily fortified outpost surrounded by Ottoman territory. Its hinterland was won from the Ottomans in the Morean War of 1699, and in 1797, as Venice fell to Napoleon, the Treaty of Campo Formio rendered the city to the Habsburg Monarchy. In 1805, the Peace of Pressburg added it to the Napoleonic Kingdom of Italy and in 1806 it was included in the French Empire, becoming part of the Illyrian Provinces in 1809. After being occupied in 1813, it was eventually granted to the Austrian Empire following the Congress of Vienna, where the city remained a part of the Austrian Kingdom of Dalmatia until the fall of Austria-Hungary in 1918 and the formation of Yugoslavia. In World War II, the city was annexed by Italy, then liberated by the Partisans after the Italian capitulation in 1943. It was then re-occupied by Germany, which granted it to its puppet Independent State of Croatia. The city was liberated again by the Partisans in 1944, and was included in the post-war Federal Yugoslavia, as part of its republic of Croatia. In 1991, Croatia seceded from Yugoslavia amid the Croatian War of Independence.

Although the beginnings of Split are traditionally associated with the construction of Diocletian's Palace in 305 CE, the city was founded several centuries earlier as the Greek colony of Aspálathos, or Spálathos. It was a colony of the polis of Issa(inhabited by Dorian Greeks), the modern-day town of Vis on the island of the same name. Issa, itself a colony of the Siciliancity of Syracuse, had acquired sovereignty and started founding its own colonies in 367 BCE, after the death of Dionysius the Elder.  The exact year the city was founded is not known, but it's estimated to have been in the 3rd or 2nd century BCE.  Pleep shows the Greek warriors who is the tuff guy.

The Greek settlement lived off trade with the surrounding Illyrian tribes, mostly the Delmatae.   In time, the Roman Republicbecame the dominant power in the region, conquering the Illyrians in the Illyrian Wars of 229 and 219 BCE. Upon establishing permanent rule, the Romans founded the Province of Dalmatia.  The city of Salona, only a short distance from Spálathos, became the capital of the province and evolved into a significant city in the Roman state. The history of Spálathos becomes obscure for a while at this point, being overshadowed by that of nearby Salona, to which it would later become successor.
The Roman Emperor Diocletian (ruled 284 to 305 CE) reformed the government in the late Roman Empire and established the Tetrarchy. This new system presupposed that Diocletian himself would retire at some point in favor of Galerius. Thus, in 293 CE, he began the construction of an opulent and heavily fortified palace near his home town of Salona, selecting the site of Spálathos (or Spalatum in Latin). The palace was built directly fronting the sea, so as to allow its occupant to escape by that means if necessary (in an era plagued by civil wars). The site was most likely chosen due to being near to Salona, but also with a secure port and a more immediate access to the open sea in the case of an attack. Following a bout of illness in 303 CE, Diocletian announced he would retire as soon as his Palace, scheduled for completion in 305 CE, was ready.

The Palace was built as a massive structure, much like a Roman military fortress. It faces the sea on its south side, with its walls 170 to 200 metres (570 to 700 ft) long, and 15 to 20 metres (50 to 70 ft) high, enclosing an area of 38,000 m² (9½ acres). The palace water supply was substantial, fed by an aqueduct from the Jadro Spring (9 km away from the city), which supplies the city to this day.  The palace and the city of Spalatum which formed its surroundings were at times inhabited by a population as large as 8,000 to 10,000 people.  Diocletian established Marjan hill as a recreational area for the residents, a tradition which persists to this day. The palace was finished on schedule in AD 305. Diocletian accordingly retired, becoming the first Roman Emperor to voluntarily remove himself from office.   After Diocletian's death, the palace became state property and was used for various purposes.   For a period one part of it seems to have been the site of a textile manufactory where Salonitan women worked.





The Palace was to have one further significant occupant, however: Flavius Julius Nepos, the last legitimate Emperor of the Western Roman Empire. By the late 5th century CE, the Western provinces of the Empire fell under the control of various Germanic confederations. Dalmatia (which had been considered a Western province since the reign of Theodosius I) eventually remained the only exception in that regard. From 468 CE, the Province was ruled by Julius Nepos, who was appointed Western Emperor in 473 CE by Leo I of the Eastern Court. He attempted to establish himself in the Western capital of Ravenna (right across the Adriatic from Salona), but was deposed within two years by his Germanic Magister militumOrestes. He returned to Salona in 475 and took Diocletian's Palace for his residence. Orestes installed his young son Romulus Augustulus as the Emperor in the West, but was murdered within a year (476 CE) by Odoacer and his son deposed. Thereupon Odoacer did not establish his own puppet emperor, but instead returned the Imperial regalia of the West to the Emperor in the East (that now being Emperor Zeno), effectively abolishing the Western Imperial throne. The Eastern Court in Constantinople, however, still recognized Julius Nepos as legitimate Western Emperor.  From AD 475, Nepos therefore ruled from Diocletian's Palace as effective "Emperor of Dalmatia". He was however murdered in the Palace by local political enemies in 480 CE, whereupon the two thrones of the Roman Empire were formally united under the Eastern emperors in Constantinople, who now became the sole Roman emperors. The Empire itself is henceforward more commonly referred to in historiography as the Byzantine Empire. In 493 CE Salona, along with most of Dalmatia, was lost to the Ostrogothic Kingdom. However, by 535 CE the Emperor Justinian the Great was ready to attempt a reconquest of Roman lands held by the Ostrogoths. By July of the same year, the Roman general Mundus had quickly overrun Dalmatia and captured Salona. But a large Gothic army arrived to reclaim the province, and though he inflicted a heavy defeat upon them, Mundus himself was mortally wounded. As a result, the Roman army withdrew, and all of Dalmatia, with the exception of Salona, was abandoned to the Goths.   Salona was then taken by the Gothic general Gripas. Justinian dispatched a new general, Constantianus, to recover Dalmatia, which he accomplished speedily. Gripas was forced to abandon Salona because of the ruined state of its fortifications and the pro-Roman stance of its citizens. Constantinianus then occupied the city and rebuilt its walls. Seven days later, the Gothic army departed for Italy, so that by late June 536 CE Dalmatia was again in Roman hands.




Split became part of the Napoleonic Kingdom of Italy in 1805, after the defeat of the Third Coalition at the Battle of Austerlitz and the consequent Treaty of Pressburg. It was included directly in the French Empire in 1806. The same year, Vincenzo Dandolo was named provveditore generale and general Auguste de Marmont was named military commander of Dalmatia.
In 1809, after a brief war with France, Austria ceded Carinthia, Carniola, Croatia west of the Sava River, Gorizia and Trieste to France. These territories, along with Dalmatia, formed the Illyrian Provinces. During this period, large investments were undertaken in the city, new streets were built and parts of the ancient fortifications were removed.
Austria, with help from a British force led by Captain William Hoste, occupied Split in November 1813.  Following the Congress of Vienna in 1815, the city was officially ceded to Austria.

Kingdom of Yugoslavia]

After the end of World War I and the dissolution of Austria-Hungary (dear readers I want to remind you my grandparents were born what was then called the Austro-Hungarian Empire of Serbian decent) , the province of Dalmatia, along with Split, became a part of the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes. Split was the site of a series of incidents between 1918 and 1920.
Since RijekaTrieste and Zadar, the three other large cities on the eastern Adriatic coast, were annexed by Italy, Split became the most important port in the Kingdom. The Lika railway, connecting Split to the rest of the country, was completed in 1925.
The country changed its name to the Kingdom of Yugoslavia in 1929, and the Port of Split became the seat of new administrative unit, Littoral Banovina. After the Cvetković-Maček agreement, Split became the part of new administrative unit (merging of Sava and Littoral Banovina plus some Croat populated areas), Banovina of Croatia in the Kingdom of Yugoslavia.

Pleep sweet talked the Nun into joining him some tea.

In April 1941, following the invasion of Yugoslavia by Nazi Germany, Split was occupied by Italy. Although Split formally became part of the Independent State of Croatia, the Ustaše were not able to establish and strengthen their rule in Split, as Italians assumed all power in Dalmatia. One month later on 18 May 1941, when the Treaties of Rome were signed, Italy formally annexed Split and large parts of Dalmatia.  Italian rule met heavy opposition from the Croat population as Split became a centre of anti-fascist sentiment in Yugoslavia. The first armed resistance group was organized on 7 May 1941; the 63 member strong 1st Strike Detachment (Prvi udarni odred) served as the basis for future formations, including the 1st Split Partisan Detachment.  Between September and October 1941 alone, ten officials of the Italian fascist occupation were assassinated by the citizens.  On 12 June 1942, a mob, which included Italian soldiers, devastated the city's synagogue, attacked the Jews inside, and looted sixty Jewish homes.[45] In September 1943, following the capitulation of Italy, the city was temporarily controlled by Tito's brigades with thousands of people volunteering to join the Partisans of Marshal Josip Broz Tito (a third of the total population, according to some sources). A few weeks later, however, the Partisans were forced into retreat as the Wehrmacht placed the city under the authority of the Independent State of Croatia a few weeks later. The local football clubs refused to compete in the Italian championship; HNK Hajduk and RNK Split suspended their activities and both joined the Partisans along with their entire staff after the Italian capitulation provided the opportunity. Soon after Hajduk became the official football club of the Partisan movement.
In a tragic turn of events, besides being bombed by axis forces, the city was also bombed by the Allies, causing hundreds of deaths. Partisans finally captured the city on 26 October 1944 and instituted it as the provisional capital of Croatia. On 12 February 1945 the Kriegsmarine conducted a daring raid on the Split harbour, damaging the British cruiser Delhi.

The church adornments were spectacular.

Yes Pleep,  that's exactly what I was thinking- I need some of these oil lamps for my prayer wall...cherubs and all.




Boca, this is how you take a selfie.



After World War II, Split became a part of the Socialist Republic of Croatia, itself a constituent sovereign republic of the Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia. During the period the city experienced its largest economic and demographic boom. Dozens of new factories and companies were founded with the city population tripling during the period. The city became the economic centre of an area exceeding the borders of Croatia and was flooded by waves of rural migrants from the undeveloped hinterland who found employment in the newly established industry, as part of large-scale industrialization and investment by the Yugoslav Federal Government.
The shipbuilding industry was particularly successful and Yugoslavia, with its Croatian shipyards, became one of the world's top nations in the field. Many recreational facilities were also constructed with federal funding, especially for the 1979 Mediterranean Games, such as the Poljud Stadium. The city also became the largest passenger and military port in Yugoslavia, housing the headquarters of the Yugoslav Navy (Jugoslavenska ratna mornarica, JRM) and the Army's Coastal Military District (equivalent of a field army). In the period between 1945 and 1990, the city was transformed and expanded, taking up the vast majority of the Split peninsula. In the same period it achieved an as yet unsurpassed GDP and employment level, still above the present day's, growing into a significant Yugoslav city.


AND HERE IT COMES....
When Croatia declared its independence again in 1991, Split had a large garrison of JNA troops (drafted from all over Yugoslavia), as well as the headquarters and facilities of the Yugoslav War Navy (JRM). This led to a tense months-long stand-off between the JNA and Croatian National Guard and police forces, occasionally flaring up in various incidents. The most tragic such incident occurred on 15 November 1991, when the JRM light frigate Split fired a small number of shells at the city and its surroundings. The damage was insignificant but there were a few casualties. Three general locations were bombarded: the old city center, the city airport and an uninhabited part of the hills above Kaštela, between the airport and Split. JRM Sailors who had refused to attack Croat civilians, most of them Croats themselves, were left in the vessel's brig. The JNA and JRM evacuated all of its facilities in Split during January 1992. The 1990s economic recession soon followed.
In the years following 2000, Split finally gained momentum and started to develop again, with a focus on tourism. From being just a transition centre, Split is now a major Croatian tourist destination. Many new hotels are being built, as well as new apartment and office buildings. Many large development projects are revived, and new infrastructure is being built. An example of the latest large city projects is the Spaladium Arena, built in 2009. Per Wiki.




Any improvement?



Lots and lots of Chinese tourists...this tour guide jumps up on the city map to explain the lay out.


A very hot day, did not keep any tourists away-













 they just load up on ice cream and cold beer.









AND OF COURSE LOTS OF CAFES








APPROPRIATE HAT FOR BOCA...



Boca couldn't resist shopping for some SUNNIES...she only brought 5 pair along and there's always a NEED for another set.
German design...light as a feather and bends every which way...

British design...






Oh this is what $1400 Euro's looks like?






So Bubs don't you ever moan and groan about my Channels...they are a bargain compared to what I tried on today!





WE ENDED UP THE DAY HAVING DINNER WITH SOME FUN AND ENGAGING FOLKS FROM NAPLES (AS IN FLORIDA).

NAH, YOUR PLAYING WITH YOUR PHONE AT THE DINNER TABLE MAKES YOU FIT RIGHT IN!

















WHEW, GLAD I KNOW I'M A FIT FOR THE BOCA AND BUBBA TEAM!








Thursday, June 22, 2017

DAY 10 THURS JUNE 22 DUBROVNIK, CROATIA or Game of Thrones?

Exquisite...the Dalmatian coast is truly one of Europe's most stunning escapes.  Long stretches of glorious shoreline are framed between limestone mountains and one of Boca's favs the Adriatic ocean....lots of islands dot this coastline.  So how much of a fav can it be if she hasn't  been here for 45 years...better than ever.











Dubrovnik's city walls- up to 20 ft thick and 72 ft tall are a stunning site as we sail in and anchor.  These walls helped protect one of Europe's most perfectly preserved medieval cities as well as safeguarding the independence of the city-state for centuries.









The city looks pretty amazing given the bombing that went on here in the early 90"s...do you remember the Siege of Dubrovnik  The Siege was a military engagement fought between the Yugoslav People's Army (JNA) and Croatian forces defending the city of Dubrovnik and its surrounding during the Croatian War of Independence (well that is one interpretation).  Yes, they bombed this UNESCO SITE proving strong international condemnation of the JNA and really became quite a public relations disaster for Serbia and Montenegro- which contributed to their diplomatic and economic isolation and obviously led to Croatia becoming its own country.  My fellow Serbs aren't keen on giving up land.  But that is for another day and a long conversation.   Over 11,000 buildings suffered some level of devastation but glad to see the city has been put back together and in phenomenal tourist ready shape.

Picture on a building with a before and after siege shot...







Pleep took the tram to the top to get that birds eye view....





Talk about some red roofs!  Picture perfect-good job Pleep.















Ok, let's get this show on the road Boca.















Lots and lots of tourists....
















Still working on our selfies.



















A man and his sword?





















Hey, that lady is a two stick schlepper?  Aren't those ski poles?




















That's right Bubs- show her how its done.




















And Boca joins the Nun tour....





















Praying to improve my selfie taking ability.








While Bubba takes 5 to have a cold one and find some Cevaps...





















Cevapi (pronounced CHAE-vap or CHAE-vap-ee) are hand-shaped, case-less sausages that are popular in Croatia, Serbia, Bosnia-Herzegovina, Bulgaria, and other countries in the Balkans/Southeastern Europe region. TURKISH INFLUENCE Cevapi (or cevapici) originated in the Balkans during the time of Turkish rule (the Ottoman Empire). You can see the Turkish influence in the similarity of cevapi to a Turkish kofta kebab, which is a mixed-meat sausage that is molded onto skewers for easy grilling.

Bubs had dreams of a jumbo platter for his pleasure.











But this is what the young girl brought him.  Boo hoo.and Bogami.  And why were we charged $2 for bread we did not ask for.  You KNOW Boca would not cough up the $2 bucks...Serbian principle as Bubs slinked away.




A TRULY UNIQUE SAUSAGE There are many things that make cevapi unique. For starters, they are made with a mixture of beef, lamb, and/or pork.  The mixture of meats creates a very unique flavor and texture in the sausage. Another unique element to these sausages, and a very exciting one, is that they are un-cased. That means that unlike bratwurst, or other cased sausages, you don’t have to have a sausage stuffing attachment to make these tasty sausages! This makes them super easy to make. Which is a big win! Finally, these guys are grilled, which means, like any grilled sausage, they benefit from a nice infusion of smoke. However, since these sausages don’t have a casing keeping all the smoky goodness on the surface, the smoke flavor really penetrates deep into the sausage. And, since these sausages are made up of fatty meat, as the fat drips onto the coals, the flames spring upward, creating a beautiful hiss.
Bubs, you must must must learn  to perfect cevp's- as Pleep is also crazy about them!

Speaking of Pleep,  naturally he had to take the GAME OF THRONES TOUR-the Kings Landing scenes are filmed here.  They say the popularity of the show has brought a lot of visitors to Dubrovnik.  You've got that a right.







THRONES...





OR TODAY...



Thrones just started it's 7th season.  Have you watched it?  Not exactly Boca's cup of tea but Pleep is mad about it!   Pleep and his Pop have not missed one episode.  Go figure.
















Winding up the day with some serious people watching...at one of the many many sidewalk cafes!









 They stick them in every nook and cranny.  Boca stopped counting at 100!













Everyone of them has a person inviting you in- join us for lunch!



$8 for a large beer



Food prices were decent for Europe.



And everyone's food looked delicious.



Didn't see all that cigarette smoking as in previous years in Europe...very small minority of people smoking in the cafes.



People watching perch- excellent!



Ya gotta nosh

















A cold beer doesn't hurt.



No spot is too small for a sit down.







Ok Boca, time to head back to the ship- for some siesta time.














In light of the Georgia Congressional special election and submitted by my son, Nicholas......



Heard Nancy is looking for a new gig.  Nance when ya spend over $31million to win a Congressional seat and your competition only spent $22m- and ya don't win, ya have a problem.  Trump Trump Trump- oh yeah, but you knew that....I heard Uber and Mobb Deep (the rapper duo) have some openings.





And guess who snuck up back to THE RETREAT after a day of touring the old city...







Saw this post on the beloved Fisher House page....that Paul Newman was one class act.




Good night dear friends.