Wednesday, August 2, 2017

DAY 50 TUES AUGUST 01 ISAFJORDUR, ICELAND




 Shaped like an outstretched paw, the westernmost point of Iceland is characterized by tiny communities, threaded together by dirt roads throughout the broad mountains.  Talk about scenic!  We anchor in Isafjordur, the regions capital, with 2600 folks living here. Between 1920 and 2013 the population of the region halved- from 13,397 to 7,129 and the decline continues.  They say in winter, this is one of the harshest environments in Iceland.  With no fertile lowlands the people look to the sea for their livelihood.  Land travel is difficult and dangerous-the steep mountain slopes constantly threaten the villages and hamlets with snow avalanches or mud slides.  In fact one of the local villages (formerly a whaling station) c 1900 had 23 of the 70 houses destroyed in a 1995 avalanche.  The village, afterwards, was rebuilt in a safer area.  Good thinking.   And no Pleep, we are glad neither happened  today.  Many beautiful and dramatic fjords.  Good spot for you hikers.  




or the DC area- which could use some Troll or Sorcery.  Don't even get Boca started about what has been going on in DC- triple oy vey.  Please pray for General Kelly that he can bring some order and sanity to the West Wing and stop the revolving door- starting with the correct selection process.



As Father Philemon stated "relax and enjoy your vacation" and I responded, "Father, when you are retired everyday is a vacation"- and I have the waistline to prove it....

We sail by the fjords toward Isafjordur or as Bubba called it "ican'tafordithere"



Beautiful sunshine and cool air.  Amen.



From our balcony we watch the tenders start taking the troops to town.




Ísafjörður  meaning ice fjord or fjord of ice, is a town in the northwest of Iceland. It is the seat of Ísafjarðarbær municipality.  Ísafjörður is the largest town in the peninsula of Vestfirðir (Westfjords) and the seat of the Ísafjarðarbær municipality, which includes the nearby HnífsdalurFlateyriSuðureyri, and Þingeyri. It is located on a spit of sand in Skutulsfjörður, a fjord which meets the waters of the larger Ísafjarðardjúp.








And for  you birders- yup, literally millions of breeding sea birds. Check out the bird cliffs of Hornsbjarg, the nesting ground for tens of thousands of pairs of noisy guillemots, Brunnich’s guillemots, razorbills, muffins, kittiwakes and fulmars- learned this from the Bird Bingo Sherryanne sent Pleep.  We heard that in spring daring Icelanders lower themselves on ropes down the cliff faces and collect the prized guillemots’ eggs.  Because?





  Pleep joined a trekking group for the morning.











 A plentiful supply of driftwood for you driftwood collectors is available.  Besides seal-hunting coastal farmers of the West Fjords have always harvested something else from the sea- driftwood.  These benefits are unevenly distributed as some farms have better driftwood beaches than others.  Remember not many trees in these parts- timber was imported in the past!  Dealing in wood was profitable for local inhabitants and many of them were also known as skilled craftsmen making useful items such as tubs and barrels.  Driftwood is still collected here but today mainly used for fence posts- sold all over Iceland.

Yes Yes!  Another church!



These fine young folks sang for us.




Pulpit up on top.   They have a female pastor.  The young folks do believe but don't attend church much- yes to holidays, weddings and funerals.  Sounds familiar.  Hey what are those two curtains for?  Confession in a Lutheran church?



No, the pastor enters the one on the right to get to the alter via her closet and the other hides the  steps up to the pulpit to preach.  The church was quite charming- all hand painted with no stencils.  There is a couple in Iceland who travel the country to paint the churches- their version of Iconography?



And there it is, requisite cemetery next to the church.  Not a bad spot to be laid to rest.  Did you decide what to do with yourself when you die?  In ground?  Above ground?  Cremation?  Have you signed a living will?  Have you taken care of your business?

 We learned under this rough and rocky mountain environment, an independent and in many ways strange, local culture has developed rich with tales of monsters, ghosts and evil spirits.  More of the land of the hidden people and trolls?  They do have a Museum of Icelandic Sorcery and Witchcraft which brings to life some of the darker aspects of living in such small and isolated communities.
The hidden people or huldufólk are part of folklore in Iceland and in the Faroe Islands. The term huldufólk means huldu- pertaining to what is hidden, and -fólk meaning people or folk. They are considered to be kind of human like elves in Icelandic and Faroese folklore. It is not uncommon that construction projects in Iceland are altered to prevent damaging the rocks and cliffs where they are believed to dwell. The term huldufolk is believed to have been taken as a synonym of álfar (elves) in 19th century Icelandic folklore.  Our guide contends that huldufólk originates as a euphemism to avoid calling the elves by their real name. It is unknown if elves and/or huldufolk are the same kind of supernatural beings, and opinions differ on the matter.



How about the elusive arctic fox?  Once hunted for its fur, the creature is still culled around the county to protect livestock and is now a protected species in the West Fjords region.


  And what about the "red fox" not indigenous....someone smuggled one in....because?  To hunt it?



More touring around...hey wait, check out those two grassy roofs Bub.




Ok, I'm on it.




Boca takes a look at one of the grass roof "houses".  The original turf houses constructed by the original settlers of Iceland (from the west coast of Norway) were based on Viking longhouses . The exterior turf walls were lined internally with a wooden frame, which was then panelled, with the roof resting on two rows of pillars dividing the internal space. The main room of the house was known as the skáli, consisting of a central open hearth and two raised platforms, known as set. Similar designs of longhouse have been found across Scandinavia, the Faroes and the Scottish isles, as well as Greenland.



This is how they lived?  Yup.



Bubs checks out the fishing boat and fisher woman.



Yes, Bubba, these are my special fishing shoes.



And these are the special 2 thumb mittens.  Huh?  Yes, for rowing- so when you wear out one side you reverse the mitten (as you have an extra thumb) to row with a fresh part of the mitten.  Who'da thunk it?



Yes Bubs you need at least a couple pair of them!



For the love of God Bubs, do not use the port o potty!  Way too close to the edge of the cliff for your use.   I know there is a reason they put them on the edge strapped to the plastic garbage can...



Next stop the Museum of Fishing...



The ladies did the salting of the fish back in the day.



Shark meat and who knows what that is- and the shark did taste like ammonia.  Even Boca had to spit it out.  You couldn't eat the whatever for fear of chipping  your veneers- the consistency of wood.  Maybe it's gourmet driftwood?




Come on Boca, chase it down with a little...Brennivin.  Icelandic's answer to Serbian Rakia?
Beer was not allowed here until 1989- seriously.
Brennivín is a clear, unsweetened schnapps that is considered to be Iceland's signature distilled beverage. It is a popular Icelandic liquor and special-occasion alcohol shot, and the traditional drink for the mid-winter feast of Þorrablót. It is made from fermented grain or potato mash and flavoured with caraway, and for this reason can be considered an aquavit.  The steeping of herbs in alcohol to create schnapps is a long-held folk tradition in Nordic countries. Brennivín has a taste similar to vodka or Scandinavian akvavit. It is typically bottled at 75 or 80 proof.  Pleep had to have a few to decide if he liked it.






Yeah, get one to go Bubs.



Now that's a bright light house...maybe a fellow Texas Ex lives around here?



Let's take a hike up to the waterfall Bubs.



Our guide suggested, "why not just take a few pics down here Mrs. Boca.  Your open toe shoes are the talk of the town."



A taped up phone case- these folks are really into recycling.  Impressive,,



Super selfie...am I getting better at it Bubs?





What?  Yup a round of golf in Isafjordur completes the day for the Pleepmeister,




Don't worry Bubs, you don't have to pay for the golf...he is a guest.




The is the most westerly place in Europe and Boca and Bubs enjoyed a beautiful sunny day (they say it is rare) in stunning Iceland.

Some interesting road signs:  Make sure you get enough sleep in the 24 hour daylight.


Don't run the sheep over!



And more of the cube houses and buildings....called "functionalist architecture".


























Bank failure....they have paid back their $5Billion loan to the international bank.  They are back on track and on the up swing...and yes it is very expensive to live here.  Must do a little more digging on this....







Regent Mid Cruise Survey
Boca was a bit taken aback when she went to the computer room (biz office) to ask the IT whiz about her Internet connection, only to find the Boca and Bubba mid cruise survey plastered in jumbo size filling the full computer screen.  Oy. Never a thought this would be publicized for all "managers" throughout the ship to see.  Bubs was in a discerning (aka complaining) mood to share his two cents.  And Boca fanned the fire for him to elaborate with details and insisted we sign our name-although there was not a space for your name.   Guessing it won't be ignored- will we be poisoned slowly or fawned over?  Will advise.




Pleep  reminded us he is quite the dog sledder and wants to make sure he has another opportunity to show off his prowess during this venture.  Pleep you will have to come back in the winter when the snow is plentiful, at this time we just have snow capped mountains.  But how about over in Greenland?



He so enjoys dog sledding in Alaska and keeping fingers crossed for an opportunity in Greenland.






PLEEP's ICELANDIC COUSIN IS ALL OVER THE CHESS.

2200 year old walrus bones suggest the most famous medieval chess set might be Icelandic in origin