Thursday, June 29, 2017

DAY 16 WED JUNE 28 NYDRI/ LEFKADA, GREECE





We anchored at Nidri - Lefkada (kinda of an island)  is ringed by electric- blue water and shimmers with wild olive groves alongside the spear shaped forms of cypress tress.  Long a favorite of the sailing community- and some impressive yachts indeed.  The "island" is 22 miles long and 9 miles wide.













The sail in is stupendous.



I can see why Aristotle Onassis bought Scorpios.  I see it from my balcony...I wanted to swim over but Bubs suggested "HELL NO!  Do you want to scare them!"  So tempting,  as it looks so beautiful...



Skorpios is mainly known as the former private island of the late Greek shipping billionaire Aristotle Onassis.The island is irregularly shaped- kinda went with his persona.  The island is heavily forested from south to north and features over 200 varieties of trees imported to the once nearly barren island by Ari. There are some sandy beaches, most notably East Beach, which was created by Onassis, who brought sand from Salamis Island for this purpose.   The local stuff wasn't good enough?  Birds eye view of the island.



It was the site of his wedding to former United States First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy on October 20, 1968. 










She lost her Secret Service protection when she remarried.  Bubs's figured it was no big deal as Ari could surely afford the best but do you remember the nude picture the paparazzi took of her while sun bathing?  So much for hiring the best.  OPA!

Upon his death it passed to his daughter Christina, and then in turn to her daughter Athina Onassis Roussel. Onassis, his son Alexander, and his daughter Christina are all buried on the island.
Athina visited the island twice after her mother died, once when she was eight and then on November 18–19, 1998 with her father Thierry Roussel and their media adviser and spokesman Alexis Mantheakis in order to hold a memorial service on the tenth anniversary of the death of Athina's mother, Christina Onassis. The three were accompanied by her ex-SAS bodyguards and Greek bodyguards. A flotilla of boats carrying international and local TV crews and journalists anchored off the island, attempting to cover the event and to get footage with telescopic lenses, as only one photographer was allowed onto the island. The arrival of Athina, her father and Mantheakis was reported by all the major wire services. Photographs of the heiress being met by the mayor of the village of Nydri, opposite Skorpios, and a large committee of welcoming villagers made the covers of various international magazines.
The memorial service on Skorpios was presided over by Father Apostolis, the local Greek Orthodox priest who had baptised Athina and presided over the funerals of Aristotle Onassis, his son Alexander and Athina's mother, Christina, all buried in the Panagitsa Chapel on Skorpios. Apart from these two visits and a couple more when Athina was a toddler, she has spent no time there
And who owns it now??
Athina sold the island in April 2013 to Ekaterina Rybolovleva, the daughter of Russian billionaire businessman Dmitry Rybolovlev.  Sale price in the neighborhood of $150million (previously valued at $200 million but when Greek economy tanked the Ruskies got a bargain) chump change for Pops as he is worth well over $9.1 Billion Bucks- nothing like what a little potassium fertilizer sale will do for one's bank account.  Ari purchased the barren island for $20,000 in 1963- all  74 acres.  Opa- another good investment.

THE NEW JACKIE OF SCORPIOS ISLAND- even the same pose!








 The nearby islet of Sparti was also included in the sale. The Greek government, however, is yet to confirm the legality of the purchase by the Russian oligarch. An investigation is currently underway, as Giannis Mihelakis (New Democracy MP) raised the question in the Greek parliament.
Specifically, Onassis stated in his will that the island would remain in the family as long as they could afford to cover its maintenance expenses. According to the will, if his descendants could not cover the expenses, the island would be donated either to Olympic Airways or to the state. Therefore, the island is now leased to the heiress for 100 years' time, still under the ownership of Athina Onassis Roussel.  in the meantime maybe this young billion-heiress will breath some life into this island.  During the 60s and 70's Onnasis employed more than 200 people on his little paradise.
Nazdravia!

Bubs can appreciate the remoteness theme as this is how Bubs like to see our ship-SOLO.   No dock. No other big ships.



First stop Mavras Castle- mavras?  Meaning black in Greek?

The Castle of Agia Mavra (also known as Santa Maura)  is strategically located on the Lefkada Island besides the Drepanos channel. 
The original building of the castle of Agia Mavra was constructed in 1300 by the Sicilian Ioannis Orsini with the main aim of protecting the new capital of the island, which was transferred on Lefkada from the town of Kaligoni and to defend the island from the pirates and other enemies. The castle has undergone total renovation and remained very well preserved. In its best days, this magnificent castle’s interior comprised squares, cisterns and administrative buildings. According the history, the Frankish knights who conquered the island of Lefkada in 1294, named the castle in the everlasting memory of the country of origin Agia Mavra (Sainte Maure).  For a period of time, the whole island of Lefkada was named the Castle of Agia Mavra. In the 16th century Venetians took over the rule of the island.
In 1487, the island has been overtaken by the Ottomans and Sultan Bagiazit ordered the construction of an aqueduct and a bridge connecting the city with the castle. This arcade shaped bridge had 360 rooms, and crossed the lagoon from the coast to Kalkani. This project was destroyed by the earthquakes. In 1716, after the Ottomans had failed to conquer Corfu, the Venetians managed to return to Agia Mavra.

What to See

In the beautiful Mediaeval Castle of Agia Mavra you can see the church of Agia Mavra. According to tradition, the church was built in the 15th century by Helen Palaiologina who built this church in honor of Agia Mavra who protected her once from the storm. She came to the island for the wedding of her daughter to the Count of Lefkada. After the Turks occupied the island, this church became a mosque. Today, you can see the ruins of the construction of the bridge built by the Turks that connected the castle with the city. In 1500, the Venetians restored the Castle, and in 1684, a lion, the symbol of Venice, was placed above the Castle’s gate. Unfortunatelly, it is barely visible today.  During its best days, in addition to the church of Agia Mavra, inside the fortress could be found the church of Latin Pandokrator and numerous other buildings like schools, barracks, water tanks, hospitals, storage rooms as well as the seat of the politicians. The castle was destroyed by the fire in 1888. After its renovation it served as a refugee camp for a period of time. During the World War II, the Castle of Agia Mavra suffered Italian attacks and was destroyed by the bombs. 

Enough of the history, come on Boca, you can schlep this property...Pleep is way ahead of us.






Greece is known for it's ruins and history...and heat.





Where is that dang monkey???



Oh joy more ruins....



Hey I see a church....must pop in for a peek and a prayer.   When the Turks took the island over the church became a mosque.  Keep looking for Pleep Bubs- you know his Greek is bad- as in bad words!  I don't want to have to bail him out of jail!




Jail...yup, I would have had to crouch down to lock someone up Boca...



or do what you are good at- bumping your head...bruising your arms, cutting your fingers and and



Pleep, where in the heck did you go?











 











He ha got to be around here somewhere....








Yes, Pleep found his Greek cousin to play with but couldn't take the heat...so he found a cool spot in the cannon.




Hey Pleep, Greek version of a fixer upper?



A stop for a coffee and some shopping...Taverna Heaven....Bubba found the perfect spot.




Why oh Why?  And what does one actually do with this "stuff" when they get home??



Pleep wondered why the Greek Chewowowowowa was wearing a sweater in 96 degree heat?  Never mind, Greek Mamma.  There might be a draft....somewhere?



Bubs plays with his Fitbit, one day he may actually learn how it works.




Let's get  to the good stuff Bubba....Feneromeni Monastery



The Monastery of Panagia Faneromeni in Lefkada: The Monastery of Panagia Faneromeni is the most important religious centre on the island of Lefkada. Located on a hill above the Town, this monastery gives gorgeous view to the capital village, the northern side of the island and the opposite coasts of the mainland. It is situated in the region of Frini and it is the saint protector of the island. According to the tradition, the monastery of Panagia Faneromeni was originally built in 1634 on the site of an ancient temple dedicated to Artemis, the goddess of hunting. On this site, the students of Apostle Paul had preached Christianity some centuries ago. In the Venetian times, particularly in the 18th century, the monastery was renovated, but unfortunately two fires burnt it down. In the late 19th century, the monastery was reconstructed again. Today, it hosts an interesting Ecclesiastical Museum with rare Byzantine icons, old manuscripts and gospels. Source: www.greeka.com





Ladies, didn't you learn from yesterday?  Schmate anyone?






















A lovely "family room"-









with fireplace and icons....hard to believe it EVER gets chilly on a Greek Island.




The grounds and buildings of the monastery are stunning and gorgeous and so pristine.













Hey Bubs, there's the church, let's go pray for me- being married for 41 years and all.











Entrance to the church and the magnificent church...


One beautiful icon after another...


Ah, is that his all Holiness?  Priest robes around the picture?



More of the hanging oil lamps....a room full!


OK, LET'S GO  CHECK OUT THE MUSEUM/ARCHIVES.



Well preserved- lots of books and papers.  Note to self:  how can you not have learned to speak Greek by now?



And more icons...Boca heaven.




and another...



Boca, I think Pleep is over with the monks- this is where they live.  Hope is not making a pest of hisself...



And what a view ....



There's Pleep- I spot him on the 3rd floor...enjoying the stunning view...




Wow!



Pleep said enough of that church and icon stuff- let's get to the good stuff- THE MONASTERY ZOO!
The what?




Oh no, here comes Bubba! thought little Bambi.




Requisite peacock.  Strike a pose for Boca- thank you.



Where in the heck did Boca disappear to????  Of course the Monastery gift shop- prayer ropes for everyone!  A must see monastery.




Bubs always looks forward to getting back on the tender and to his floating hacienda.




Despite being connected to the mainland by a narrow causeway it feels distinctively untamed by the tourism footprint. Lefkada delivers an astounding array of breathtaking landscapes, ancient ruins and a bit of joie de vivre- so Greek! Amen.