Saturday, July 8, 2017

DAY 25 FRI JULY 07 AMALFI, ITALY





AMALFI COAST
Deemed by UNESCO to be an outstanding example of a Mediterranean landscape, the Amalfi Coast is quite a combination of great beauty and gripping drama (per Pleep).  Coastal mountains plunge into the sea in a simply stunning scene- per our destination peep "precipitous, moutains, picturesque towns and lush forests".

The only land route to the Amalfi Coast is the 25 mi long Strada Statale 163 which runs along the coastline from the town of Vietri sul Mare in the east to Positano in the west. Thirteen municipalities are located on the Amalfi Coast, most of them are centered on tourism.





The Amalfi Coast is known for its production of limoncello liqueur (no fan) as the area is a known cultivator of lemons, known as sfusato amalfitano in Italian, which are grown in terraced gardens along the entire coast between February and October.   Amalfi is also a known maker of a hand-made thick paper which is called bambagina- and  no i am not wedding invitation shopping for you Alex.   Other renowned local products are a particular kind of anchovies (local Italian: alici) from Cetara, and the colorful handmade ceramics from Vietri (you know those fabulous dishes I have that Bubs continues to chip and break).



Amalfi- the town




We have been here before and couldn't quite agree on what to see today...so we opted for something new-  Ravello.  Where is Ravello? up on top of Amalfi more or less....so back on a tour bus for the ride up the mountain.


It started out pretty good- oh there's Pleep, he's down at the beach.




Along with the other thousands of sun bathers....

















THE WILDEST RIDE IN ITALY!
And then the madness began...I had no idea of how narrow and steep the road to Ravello was, is and probably always will be.  OMG- THIS WAS THE SCARIEST RIDE OF MY LIFE!!  And I was riding shot gun, while Bubba was hiding in the back of the bus.  



This jack wagon did not pay any mind to a red light and decided to come down the hill while our bus was on the way up- our bus driver backed this guy right up this steep mountain!!
















And they do this day in and day out? This twisty road- the only one along the stretch of the coastline- per the tour guide (now he tells us) "offers an intoxicating blend of captivating views, tight space and treacherous turns."  Well he got that right.  And will provide a lasting memory- FRIGHTENING.  When is the ride NEVER an adventure?? 




And the locals zing in and out  around the buses and cars.
















Picture taken from my seat...on the right side of the bus...was our driver scraping the wall??
















Someone had bit the dust on this curve before us....love the plastic wrap safety fence...oy  Lots of gasps as our driver careens around another curve.
















 Even the professional bus drivers have their moments...to this average American, Italian traffic is nutty and seems hysterical and follows no rule.  There was no rhyme or reason to what the other drivers would or were doing.  Motor scooters buzzing about like mosquito's.   And everyone loves to blow their horn.
















Once we got off of the bus and I regained color in my face I told Bubs I was walking down and I didn't care how long it would take...right Boca...that would be about 2 days.


And yes the view at the top was spectacular...




A terraced world...



Yes, Bubs I could see renting the place for a month next summer- just get the helicopter reservation in -or a donkey.  Do you think they have one big enough?  Those mules on Santorini were quite small.



A previous Pope get away...being renovated.   Maybe it'll be finished by next year and I could bum a ride in the Pope Mobile?



And some wow hotels up here as well.



Yin and Yang?  Soup and Sandwich?  A Brother from Another Mother?  Nah, Tour Guide and  Touree.  Has your wife revived from the ride?





Michelangelo (could I possibly make that up) was charming and enthusiastic all things Amalfi and  Ravello.




RAVELLO:  THE BEST VIEW ON THE AMALFI COAST




  Perched on a hill top more than 1200 feet above the Mediterranean and far removed from the crowds that flock to the  sea town of Amalfi and  Positano, Raello is surely the hidden treasure of what we have experienced on the  Amalfi Coast over the years.  Its villas and vistas have enchanted visitors for centuries- what took us so long to get here Bubs- yeah right, could be that crazy ass ride up the mountain? Famous actors, authors, composers and artists have come here of refuge and inspiration- well there's your answer Boca.



Because Ravello, set like an eagle's nest above the dizzying landscape of Italy's Amalfi coast,  it is a most peaceful and charming resort on the Neapolitan Riviera.  Glimpses of the Mediterranean miles below and the breeze make it oh so dreamy.  Maybe one day I will say worth the life threatening ride?



In medieval times, Ravello produced several successful merchants, who built much of what we recognize today- their architectural contributions transformed Ravello from a sleepy mountain hamlet into a medieval wonder.  How in the heck did they get all those building supplies up that steep mountain???

Gardens, architectural beauties and breathtaking vistas.



Greta Garbo, Jacqueline Kennedy and Tennessee Williams all holidayed here, and the place still has an air of restrained glamour (though neighbouring Amalfi has more in the way of beach and nightlife).



At one time this town had more than 40,000 folks living here...today there are only 3,000.  Not to feel lonely...a gazillion visitors take the loneliness away!  Boca does the "one more church" shuffle while Bubs takes 5 at the cafe.



And next step was some shopping....there are a few really neat jewelry shops up on this mountain and a very cool pooch.  Guard dog for the shop?  What breed is that sir?  A bull dog.  Only a face a mother could love...but kinda cute in a weird way.




Hey, if this jewelry store is good enough for Hillary then surely Boca should buy a thing or two...


Oh my gosh- there are those arab heads I wanted to buy!  In earring format- sold!




Oh wow, check out that view!




















We could see the town of Scala, access the valley from Ravello- it was settled in the 4th century AD by Romans who were shipwrecked on their way to Constantinople.  Among them were members of the Roman nobility who descendants played a prominent role in the development of both Scala and Ravello.   This takes terrace living to a new level!  Have you been up here????
And what goes on up in these parts these days?  The atmospheric grounds of the castle-like Villa Rufolo (said to have provided Wagner with inspiration for Klingsor's garden in Parsifal) is the setting for The Ravello Concert Society's annual season of chamber music concerts between April and October (www.ravelloarts.org). And there will be more music at the highly regarded Ravello Festival, which starts on July 8.  RAVELLO is known around the world as la cite della musica aka THE CITY OF MUSIC.  Maybe that had a lot to do with all the young folks meandering with an instrument strapped on??



TIME TO GO BACK DOWN THE MOUNTAIN BOCA- HAVE ONE MORE BEER PLEASE.


Back down the mountain...had those few beers to calm down and crossed myself and closed my eyes for the ride down.  We gave the driver a standing ovation when he pulled into the drop off spot down in Amalfi.  PRAISE THE LORD AND HALLELUJAH!


Beachs were packed.





Bubs fled back to the boat while Boca soldiered on in Amalfi...oh gee- another church!




More evidence of Catholic rule, but what about today?  Many (most) of these churches are more or less tourist stops?





The town is one big outdoor shopping mall.




Cafe's, gelato shops, lots of linen, lots of ceramic and of course the paintings of the locale scenes by local painters (in  China?).

















Lemon this and lemon that..



I'll take a pass on the limoncello- not a fan - yes hard to believe there is one thing I don't drink.




Boca spots a fellow fashionista...as Bubs calls it "your Nun look".



The cobble central squares are common throughout Italian cities and they are so often pedestrian- only that  you'd be forgiven if you looked at Amalfi's cathedral- facing square and assumed it was off-limits to cars.  You'd  be wrong!  The whole main artery of Amalfi is a street used by cars- DESPITE ITS NARROW WIDTH.  It's one-way traffic only, setting off as the lights at opposite ends of town go from red to green and back again...Boca wondered why there was a stop light on a shop wall??

What this means is that there's a long lull between bursts of car and scooter traffic, but when it comes it's not moving slowly.  Those folks have waited a long time for that green light and they don't hesitate when they get it.   The lesson here is PAY ATTENTION BOCA- that sweet cobbled one-lane street may not be so sweet after all.




The Italians are creative with their aprons...



How did they all get here?



Did someone say sun glasses?  This darling young gal was oh so very patient as Boca pretty near tried every darn pair of glasses on in the store.  Eureka.  We have a hit!



Now to find Pleep on the beach....



Yes, he fit right in.  Time to go Pleep.  We'll  be back next week.  Ciao!




Farewell dinner with our new Kiwi pals hailing from Auckland- who knows anyone who lives in Auckland?  Bubs thinks they are some lucky Kiwi's... so second night in a row up to the Colonade- TUSCAN NIGHT.



Raising the bar for Bubs on displaying of food..




another feast for the eyes..



I'll pass on the bread....another glass of wine please.





But Bubs could not pass up the sweet merry go round.  He'd rather eat his sugar.




Bubba, what is Boca doing with the iPad??  It was a bit odd at the happy hour that she rec'd a face time call and held the iPad to her ear...oh my.



Good point but hey I thought I should go up to this fellow cruiser and tell her she forgot her slip.




Bubs, suggested NOT.  As that would ruin it for the old men.



Definitely trophy material.




And Pleep wanted to ask her if she had some fresh buns?