Sunday, August 6, 2017

DAY 54 SAT AUGUST 05 PAAMIUT, GREENLAND



Most folks live along the coastal areas-ice free, on the world's biggest island.  Greenland is bigger than Alaska.  85% is covered by an icecap-hence why the people live in the coastal areas.  Polar bears live north and ne of Greenland, so none to see here.  But maybe we will see some musk oxen?  And the humpback whales are commonly found here and don't forget the reindeer.  The ice sheet contains 10% of the worlds fresh water.  Many glaciers are here- they constantly flow due to its own weight and gravity.  Will we see some?  We do see a lot of mini icebergs- which are the ice cubes chipped off of the glaciers.  Remember, we couldn't go into Christian Fjord  a few days ago- too filled with icebergs.  Capeche?  Lots of land reshaping have been happening in these parts, due to the flow of the ice.  Did I mention lots and lots of rocks in this neck of the world.

No Nordic Cross on the flag....like the other Scandinavian Flags.   Why is that?
                                                       
PLEEP likes that his Mom might be named after this town....Serbian friends and family always wondered how did this Serb-American get named Pamela?  Note to self:  get that Ancestor DNA test done when home.  Something about being at the top of the world?




Talk about off the beaten path- Situated on a fjord (a fjord has to be formed by ice moving to the sea)- people have lived in the Paamiut area since around 1500 BC. The Vikings (982-985 ad) were interested in murder and mayhem throughout the land.  Remember the bad boy Eric the Red?  He lead 25 ships to Greenland and only 14 made it.    Eric settled 2 areas- Western and Eastern (looks kinda southern to Boca).  They had livestock and farming-huh?-...yes it used to be colder.   So much for global warming?  Remember the interior is one sheet of ice.  Eric remained devoted to the Norse Gods, while his wife converted to Christianity.  They then sailed over to what we now know as Canada (Labrador, Newfoundland) and then down to what we now know as New York.  Way before Christopher Columbus time....

The Pope told them in the 1300's that Greeenlanders were excused from paying their tithes-remember Lutheranism didn't come to them, till much later on.

The trading post of Frederikshaab-original name- was established by Jacob Severin's company in 1742 and named in honor of the Crown Prince Frederick (later King Frederick V of Denmark).  The community prospered on trading fur and whale products. It also became known for its soapstone artists. 
Following the warming climatic trends since the 1920s, Paamiut (name change) developed a booming cod industry between the 1950s and 1989, when the stock dwindled.  In connection with a development plan called G60,  Paamiut was chosen as to be the place to live for the entire population of the former Paamiut municipality. Therefore, the number of people living there rose significantly during that period.

If this is warming what was it like back then?  Woke up to a little iceberg off our balcony.



And more of the view as our tenders start the day schlepping us back a forth for a little village visit.



Good morning Mrs. Boca- glad to see you are up and about and hanging on your balcony yet again...have you considered putting on a robe?



Oops there it is....and this tender had to turn around and come back to the ship because they ran "a ground"...seriously?  Pleep convinces Boca they have now figured out how to dock in Paamuit and all is well to hop on the tender for some village fun.  Oy, well the will is up to date, so let's give it a rip Pleep.





Hey Bubs, what in the heck is this?  An abandoned ship?



Looks like this one ran aground too....where it dies it lies?



Ah a little green moss growing on the rocks and everyone knows ya gotta have satellite.



The captain reminds us to be back on the ship by 7- really?  I guess he thought Boca came here for the shopping.



Hey Alan and Kay!  Indeed Bub, a bit chippy over here.



Never mind the chippy, these are my kind of people!



Our tour guide leads the way...Busby Babes?


The original buildings from the previous century houses the museum, among them a carpenter workshop and a salt warehouse. The Danish Crown Princely family visited the town as part of an official tour of Greenland in summer 2014.  Where in the heck did they stay?


The town has one of the finest churches in Greenland, built in 1909 from wood in the Norwegian style.  Pleep says it is channeling Hansel and Gretel.



Wonder how many attend and practice Lutheranism today?



Another beautiful, simple and pristine Lutheran Church.



The minister was there to "greet" us but never said a word?


Bubs and Pleep admire  the standard ship chandelier.



Everyone needs a seal skin make up bag Boca.  I made it with a lady just like you in mind.  But of course!


Colorful houses all over this tiny village.




Our littlest touree wants Dad to carry her now.  This brave little Canadian never complained about the cold.  Imagine that!





That's the jail- the yellow house...the basement with the little windows are where the "cells" are....




As is the case for other towns of western Greenland, the sea is free of ice during the winter (well, mostly), while fishing is the primary occupation of the inhabitants of the region. Icebergs, coming adrift along the east coast of Greenland with the East Greenland Current and continuing up along the west coast with the West Greenland Current normally arrive in the autumn, bringing numerous seals marking this season as a great time for the local hunters....and make up bags.

Check out what this guy has hanging under his deck....no need for a freezer.  Hey buddy that's a lotta meat- Bubs loves the no limit rule for the hunters.

With 1,515 inhabitants as of 2013, it is the eighth-largest town in Greenland, down from the seventh in 2005. Paamiut has been losing population for almost every year in the last two decades: more than 31% relative to 1990 levels, almost 20% relative to 2000, and more than 16% relative to 2005.  However, some young Danes are moving here...because?





Come on Boca, let's go check out the Ivanka...not quite a Trump Tower but sure to be entertaining.



The gorgeous children of Greenland from this colorful fishing village which is rich with Inuit culture.




















The boys asked if Pleep could go riding with them as they heard, he was nothing but fun (aka trouble).























Winter garb...nothing says warm like a "reindeer" jacket...aka caribou.



We learned about a staggering 30% of children in Greenland are victims of their parents' excessive drinking. The Blue Cross in Denmark has committed to supporting Blue Cross Greenland in their mission to reduce alcohol-related harm, especially among children.  Never heard of "Blue Cross"...as opposed to Red Cross or Blue Cross-Blue Shield?  Have you?


Certainly the remoteness and climate contribute to the consumption- as does the cost.  They say, children, who come from families where one or both parents drink often judge themselves, face social exclusion, are terrified of abandonment and are much more likely to become alcoholics themselves. Alcohol is the most used intoxicant in Greenland and by far the majority of the adult population consumes alcohol.


High rates of alcohol consumption in one far northern settlement in Greenland have led the government to declare it dry. This is an extreme measure but International Blue Cross warmly supports the Greenland Government at its evidence based policy that reduces the access and availability to alcohol and hence dramatically reduces the harm. It is wonderful to see that public health is at the heart of the national policy. Nobody would disagree that alcohol consumption in Savissivik, a settlement in far northern Greenland, is at the high end of the scale. Public intoxication has been one of the visible effects, as are property crimes such as theft and vandalism. Worst of all, child-neglect is said to spike whenever parents hit the drink too hard.



 Blue Cross Greenland's services are targeted at both children and parents who need counselling, information and a place to overcome their addiction.  Blue Cross Denmark, with its experience running targeted programs for children, have established a partnership with its counterpart in Greenland to renovate and establish services in six locations offering education and promoting alcohol-free spaces, primarily for kids. The project is financed by Y's Men International, Region Denmark, who contributes almost half of the total project cost. Through contributions made through Global Giving, they provide toys, meals, therapy and arrange excursions.  Blue Cross Greenland fosters an optimistic and alcohol-free environment for both children and parents to help fight alcohol addiction. By offering a space for children to speak freely about their parents addiction and the effect is has on them, the Blue Cross empowers youth to lead drug free lives and create healthy social networks.

God bless and good luck.....
So what exactly are the issues with alcohol in Greenland?



Per one local:  
"Many people hate it, but there is truth to the stereotype that alcohol abuse is a huge social problem in Greenland. It plagues many families as the lubricant to domestic violence, suicide and sexual abuse, and is also one reason money goes so quickly down the drain when people get paid at the end of the month. Perhaps in lash back, I heard that quite a few young people choose not to drink alcohol at all. Understandable, if it’s the source of stupidity.  It’s hard to imagine a life without Coke or juice or beer, but for many years, water was the only drink available in Greenland. Drawn from spring water or cut from chunks of ice, brought home and then melted.  Clearly, the founding Viking settlers in Greenland couldn’t imagine living without alcohol either: there’s a working theory that when Eric the Red came with his crew in 1000 A.D, they tried to grow barley and corn, the source of mead and malt.
When Greenland was later colonised and claimed as part of the Kingdom of Denmark, three new beverages were introduced: coffee, tea and alcohol. First, alcohol was only available to the Danes, but slowly became available to high-ranking Greenlanders in the form of rations and permits. It was harder for the commoners to obtain the drink, and they had to do tasks to gain access. The rest of the Greenlanders could brew their own beer called ‘immiaq’, but eventually in 1954 everyone was able to buy as much as they could afford.
Alcohol’s a problem everywhere in the Arctic
Alcohol is a big problem today in many Arctic communities, not just in Greenland. While the Greenlandic government have put restrictions on opening hours for purchasing alcohol, put high taxes on it and are promoting educational programs, a different approach has been tried in Canada. They have ‘wet’ and ‘dry’ communities, where the people in the settlements themselves decide whether they should self-prohibit the sale or possession of alcohol. Some studies like Daryl Wood’s show that there’s less violence in the dry communities, while other stories speak of binge drinkers coming from dry places to get hammered in wet settlements. These problems need to be discussed, acknowledged and ultimately tackled so that people can self-monitor and control their own consumption of alcohol". 

Back to the tender and some texting...our youngest touree and Mom had just the right amount of Paamuit.




Bubs, why did the tender stop?  Why are we sitting here in the middle of the ocean?  What?  An iceberg is blocking the Regent's hatch so we can't get pull up?  Yes, that's right Boca, we will have to wait patiently for it to move....  Why can't they get a blow drier or broom to make it move?




What do they do with their garbage?  Are they having a garbage strike here too?



Ah, back on the boat and ready for some warm Java.  A Viennes for Mrs. Boca ....as she heard Bubba mumble, "yeah, that'll help you get in shape for the mother of the bride dress."



and a special Americano for Mr. Pleep.



And a little more of the never ending viewing of the fugly art....psychedelic toast?
















At least the Godmother of the ship has a decent picture....nothing like swimming with your tiara on...Boca's kind of girl.





And always nice and cosey in the Observation lounge with our pals the Gicks.



Time for dinner, so time to go down to the Compass Rose- that guy must be from Kentucky....suspenders over a t shirt = formal wear.



Bubs loves that our "sommelier" aka waiter, can poor for us without looking.



Cheers!  Missing our friends Steve and the other Pam!




Yes! Yes!  We closed down the Compass Rose, yet again!




Boca insists upon several courses as she wants her money's worth....getting harder to find people to dine with Boca and Bubs.  Thank you Alan and Kay!



Yup, the others are all gone.




Bubs, does your wife always order 7 courses?





Reminiscing over this past years 41st Anniversary from well wishers...




A friend from Naples sent a picture of his new pup, Ted.  How about a Lab?  We had one when the kids were little.  So lovable!  Congrats on the new pup Vic!  We tend to hop around and try different breeds while many we know tend to stick with one breed.  What about you?  How do you decide on the breed?  Or where to buy one?  Ok we know Boca keeps asking the same questions demonstrating her confusion about getting the new pooch.




And a beautiful young lady friend sent her doggie as a suggestion....also trying to get doggie's owner fixed up with Nick.  Can't blame a Mom for trying.  Nick, start practicing your Russian.





Another friend sent, "Half the candidates for Mayor in Detroit have felony records."  Is that true?

All that arctic air helps Boca sleep like a log...and you thought it was the wine!