Friday, June 16, 2017

DAY 3 THURSDAY JUNE 15 GREEK REVIVAL: ATHENS

ATHENS-the world's first capital.
It is also the capital and largest city in Greece, with a population of 664,000 in the city proper and over 3 million plus in the metro area.  Athens is recognized  as a global city because of its location and its importance in shipping- with Piraeus is both the largest passenger port in Europe and the second largest in the world.  We will experience the port on Saturday when we board the Seaborn.  Haven't been here since 1998- yup, still looks the same.  Ancient and modern with equal measures of grunge and grace, bustling Athens is a mix of hairy and edginess.The heritage of the classical era is still evident in the city- lots of ancient monuments and works of art.


The oldest known human presence in Athens is the Cave of schist- which has been dated to between the 11th and 7th Milena BC.   By 1400 BC the settlement had become an important center of the Mycenaean civilization and the Acropolis was the site of a major Mycenaean fortress.  And what a history this country and in particular Athens has had!  Double Opa!  Let's remember Athens became the leading city of Ancient Greece, with its cultural achievements laying the foundations for Western Civilization.  The playwrights Aeschylus, Sophocles and Euripides flourished in Athens during this time as did the historians Herodotus and Thucydides, the physician Hippocrates and don't forget the philosopher Socrates....and Pleeps personal favorite- Pericles, who promoted the arts and fostered democracy.


Despite the adversity it has faced in recent years- maybe even because of it- Athens has become and incredibly fun place to visit!  When Mark Twain arrived in Athens, in 1867, his ship was quarantined, so he sneaked ashore after dark.  As he rerouted in his grouchy travelogue The Innocents Abroad, he bribed his way into the Parthenon, stole a "gallon of superb grapes" from a nearby vineyard, and then completely bypassed modern Athens while dismissing its inhabitants as "pirates, villains and falsifiers of high repute".  On his boat the next day, having visited only moonlit ruins, Twain concluded, "We have seen all there is to see," and set sail for the islands.


 To this day this idea does persist with some visitors - ugly, polluted, dirty and even dicey- but not the case for Boca and Bubs.  So Bubs buys his favorite ticket from our Concierge.



SO WE JUMP ON THE BUS GUS...HOP ON AND HOP OFF.  BUBS FAV...



Years of economic catastrophe and political "fecklessness" have instilled in its residents an almost heroic fatalism.  Over the past decade, Greece's GDP has fallen 25%.  Youth unemployment hovers around 60%.    And don't forget, more than 1 million refugees have landed on their shores on their way to other countries- some say reminding them of what real misery looks like.   Somehow, someway they have regrouped- looks like they stopped waiting for the government to get it together or the EU to bail them out...and finding ways to move things forward.  We see lots of creative energy in the art world and entrepreneurship!  And the "unexpected" blast of tourism sure fueled this fire.  Last year a record 27 million visited Greece and the cafes are full.

You know Boca is fascinated by Graffiti and generally not in a good way...



Excavation and graffiti go hand in hand??




When do they do this and nobody notices it?














Never ending artwork?













This owner just went with it and made it look like a cow hide?  Zebra?













Hard to see the beauty in defacing private property?

















Bringing new meaning to Greek columns...













Nothing a few Billion bucks in foreign aid couldn't fix up






















The graffiti "artists" even defaced the classical Univ of Athens building???














Lets hop off the bus Bubs and check out the fish/meat market..."Great, the floor is slick as snot.  Are you trying to kill me Boca!".




How bout some goat's head??
















The smell about knocks Bubba out...who doesn't love the smell of  raw Octopussy?


















Fresh hooves anybody?



















Big enough?


A





I've had enough of this place- I'm outta here.






Last call for some goat heads...




Hey how about some chicken feet soup?





















All that looking around got a girl hungry.  Time for some lunch Bubs??  But not without some selling of some creative stuff....an automatic needle threader from a guy from Bangladesh.











Yes, Mrs. Boca- you need this for your sewing needs.  For my what?  And I am sure all of your firends back home would want one too.














My new BFF.

Yes he insisted that I buy one for everyone of you....when was the last time you sewed something??
















Enough of this good time- the lunch has arrived.  Boca, what in the hell did you order that is Peptobismal pink?  Yuk.  Good, the more for me Bubs.  Have a little more of the Greek beer- it'll cheer you up.














Back on the Red Bus for a ride out to the Riviera of Athens...between the beer and the jet leg I was ready for a nap.  How good could it be?  So off we schlepped...












Wake up Bubs- the Athenian Riviera is quite stunning- suburban living- aka living la vida boca!  Very upscale and gorgeous- a new home under construction.  The Athenian Riviera must make the locals feel like they are on an endless vacay.  Lots of upscale shops, restaurants, nightclubs and big time marinas with some jumbo Greek yachts.   And for you sailors, a whole lotta beautiful sail boats and places to sail.  Boca takes a pass on the beach volleyball.









And a stunning view and place to live to enjoy the seaside.  It's good to have some moola and live in the suburbs san graffiti art.  This gorgeous stretch of coastline with its green-blue water, rocky coves and 5 star resorts looks like a place Boca should explore.



Quite lovely and so close to such a city.



I think Bubs has his eye on one of the beach beds...or whatever he sees lying on it.  His eyes aren't as bad as he claims?




Right here in the middle of the upscale lifestyle....hey, what is this Bubs?  The old airport?  Still standing?  Abandoned?  Athens' abandoned International airport is incredibly creepy...




Opened in 1938 and closed in 2001 after a new airport was let for the Olympics, Ellinikon International Airport sits abandoned without any hope for redevelopment since Greece is more broke than ...built just 4 miles south of Athens it was taken over by the Nazi's to serve as a Luftwaffe base from 1941.  In 1945 the Greek government signed an agreement with the US Army Air Forces,  used it as a handy spot for Mediterranean, African and Middle- Eastern operations over the next 5 decades.





In 1988, Greece decided not to extend the arrangement and the USAF concluded ops here in 19991.  The airport then focused on civilian air transport  and flew the Olympic Airlines flag.










Oh my....











I guess they didn't have the money to clean up the site.














Possible future as a kennel??












I guess its ironic that the Olympics was what took care of the place for good....remember they wanted to host the Olympics in 1996 but were having financial difficulties- and could only get it done in 2004.  Opa- or should I say Oy Vey?









Anyway, Greece built a new airport as part of the Olympic package and this one was shut down in 2001.  They did use it as some of the Olympic venue sites- canoe/kayak, field hockey, baseball and softball.  One of the hangars was even used for the main fencing venue... but look at it today-








And let's not forget Olympic Airlines went bust in 2009.  So what is happening to this oh so very prime and most expensive abandoned lot?  Lambda Development has proposed an 8 Billion euro development that would include a massive park, 2 hotels, a shopping mall, sports venues and a marine club.  This was to take place in 2016...so where are the bulldozers?  Looks like a good site for Bubs favorite TV show, "Walking Dead".


And yes ,very odd still standing in the middle of some very pricey real estate....



And don't forget the very ambitious $750 million Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center- the new home of Greece's national opera and library.  This waterfront temple to the arts sits on an artificial hill in the working-class neighborhood of Kalithea.  It was completed in 2016 and donated to the Greek state in 2017.  The former horse racing track is a modern marvel.  The scale is epic!


















A wow on every level...



I wonder if the dream of the foundation is being met- the goal was to recharge the youth- to help create new opportunities for Greece's younger generations- committing many millions more to help the future prospects of young people severely impacted by the critically high unemployment rate.  President Obama gave a speech here (Nov 2016) covering the impact of democracy.  That's rich.

Enough of the hop on and off...Bubs high tales it back to the hotel to take 5..."come on Boca enough with the lolly gagging and taking pictures.  Besides being a lousy picture taker, you are incredibly slow at it!".



All that bus riding and touring inspired an evening at The Plaka!    The Plaka is the old historical neighborhood of Athens, clustered around the northern and western slopes of the Acropolis.  A labyrinthine of streets and neoclassic architecture  aka "neighborhood of the Gods".  A "hangry" man ...  hurry up Boca, I am hungry!



Joy, more steps.  Most of the streets have been closed to car traffic though a speeding motorcycle can give you a run for the money.  I remember when I was here in the 70's and it was the nightclub hang out....now lots of restaurants, jewelry stores and cafes- excellent place to people watch.  Bubs and I play "guess the tourist's nationality."


The Plaka is visited by hundreds of thousands of tourists year round.  And the "specialty" shops are there to entice them to part with their euros.  Who could pass up a Greek plate made in China or another evil eye make up bag?  Crammed full of stuff- and a lot of it junk- if you are compelled to take back something for everyone back home you are in the right place.








Love and rugs?

















And you know Boca can't pass up an Icon store.












A fun and oh so lively spot.  All utilities are underground by the way giving you a feeling of olden times and King Otto's rule.



Now that's what I'm talking about!  Bubs laughed about all of the restaurant menu's being the same.  Yup, makes it easy for all involved- the eators and the eatees.  Lots of pictures helping you order off the Greek menu- besides you ought to know all this Greek food by heart.  Where's my Ouzo!  You will have to stop by Angelo the Ouzo King's place on the way home Bub- you'll sleep like a baby.  Amen.





















And Bubs, never forget Boca's Golden Rule to your happiness.